For more than a century, the Burberry check pattern has been synonymous with British luxury, a distinctive mark that evokes the heritage and prestige of the brand. First introduced in the 1920s as the lining for Burberry’s signature trench coats, the beige, black, red, and white check – officially known as the Burberry Check – has since become one of the most recognizable trademarks in fashion. However, it was not until the 1960s, when an associate at Burberry’s Paris store repurposed the lining to wrap luggage and create an umbrella cover as part of the store’s decor, that the first Burberry Check accessories were born. This pivotal moment paved the way for the pattern to transcend its original use and become a defining element of the brand’s identity.
Today, the value of the famed Burberry Check extends beyond aesthetics, functioning as a legal and commercial asset that generates significant revenue for the company. But with value comes vulnerability, and Burberry has spent decades policing the unauthorized use of its iconic print in order to maintain its exclusivity. As counterfeiters and mass-market brands continue to try to capitalize on its recognition, Burberry’s enforcement strategy provides an important case study on the legal and economic importance of trademark protection in the fashion industry, particularly against the background of an enduring brand revamp.
The Rise, Fall & Revival of the Check
As a registered trademark in many markets across the globe, the Burberry Check is a lucrative asset that represents a major portion of the company’s brand equity. While Burberry does not publicly disclose the financial worth of the check pattern, alone, its contribution to the brand’s overall valuation is sizable. Burberry’s revenue in FY2023 reached £3.1 billion ($3.9 billion), with accessories that prominently feature the check accounting for a significant share of sales.
Despite its status as a symbol of British heritage, Burberry’s check has faced challenges in maintaining its prestige. During the early 2000s, widespread counterfeiting and overexposure led to the pattern being associated with lower-tier markets, as knockoffs flooded street markets and discount retail outposts. The check became so overused that the brand itself reduced its visibility, a rare example of a luxury house retreating from its most recognizable design in an effort to reclaim exclusivity.
Burberry’s strategic response – reining in accessibility and engaging in collaborations that emphasized craftsmanship and modernity – helped to successfully revitalize the check’s appeal. During his tenure as creative director from 2018 to 2022, Riccardo Tisci, for example, infused the print with a “rebellious cool,” exemplified by a collaboration with Vivienne Westwood. More recently, under the creative direction of Daniel Lee, the Burberry Check has been set on the bias and reimagined in new colorways and fabrications, further modernizing its appeal.
Battling Infringement and Dilution
To protect the integrity of the valuable check, Burberry has actively enforced its trademark rights through litigation and opposition proceedings. In one notable case, the brand sued U.S. retailer Target in 2018, alleging that the mass-market chain had unlawfully sold scarves and accessories featuring a pattern “indistinguishable” from Burberry’s check. The lawsuit, which was later settled, underscored the company’s aggressive stance to protect the distinctiveness of its mark – a key issue for luxury brands that rely on maintaining an air of exclusivity.
Burberry has also taken legal action against Chinese counterfeiters, including multiple lawsuits filed against online marketplaces where fake Burberry Check goods were being sold.
Brand Valuation & Strategic Revival
Despite Burberry’s rich heritage, the brand has faced financial challenges in recent years. Brand Finance told TFL that according to its metrics, Burberry’s brand value declined by 12 percent to $4.0 billion for 2025, down from $4.6 billion in 2024, reflecting weaker financial performance and lower revenue forecasts. However, the consultancy’s Valuation Director Annie Brown says that Burberry CEO Joshua Schulman’s strategic brand revival efforts “may be gaining traction, [and that] by realigning the brand with its heritage, legacy, and distinctive British charm, Burberry is laying the groundwork for potential revival, offering the brand its first real sense of optimism in some time.”
Brand Finance research highlights that Burberry ranks fourth for familiarity among luxury apparel brands in the UK and third as a brand that consumers know well. However, the company has struggled with lower engagement in key markets like China, the U.S., and the UK, signaling a need for a more consumer-centric approach. To address these concerns, the company has enlisted high-profile ambassadors, including Chinese actor Chen Kun, rising TV star Zhang Jingyi, and Irish actor Barry Keoghan. This strategic move aims to reinforce the brand’s presence in key regions, leveraging the power of celebrity endorsements to reconnect with consumers.
Lessons for the Luxury Industry
The Burberry Check’s trajectory illustrates the delicate balance between visibility and exclusivity in luxury branding. Overexposure – whether through mass-market collaborations, counterfeits, or unauthorized usage – can diminish a trademark’s prestige and dilute its value. However, with strategic brand management and rigorous enforcement, iconic trademarks like the Burberry Check can sustain their status as high-value assets.
In an era where fashion houses increasingly rely on intellectual property protections to maintain competitive advantage, Burberry’s check serves as a testament to the enduring power of a well-managed trademark. As the brand continues to navigate evolving consumer trends and legal challenges, its ability to protect and leverage its most famous asset will remain critical to its success.
